Intro to Inline Weights for depth control
Inline weights are a great depth control option, but they have some limitations. Trying to figure out where they are in the water column most days is an educated guess at best. That doesn’t make them a bad choice, just a difficult one to be exact with. There are several reasons inline weights are hard to “dial in”:
Their shape, even the most hydrodynamic ones, make them extremely inefficient at maintaining a specific depth
A change in speed, even a slight one, can alter depth by several feet
The dive curve is not linear. A 2 oz. weight let out 40’ does NOT go twice as deep as a 2 oz. weight let out 20’
Actually, the more line that is let out the less increase in depth is achieved. This is due to the lifting properties of long lengths of monofilament fishing line in the water (superlines are not much better…they are actually more buoyant than most mono lines!)
The lighter an inline weight is the faster it will begin to be affected by the “lift” of the line
With all that said, Inline weights can be a dynamite way to control the depth of a lure and they catch LOTS of fish every season. Inline weights are easy to use, easy to find, easy to change and easy to reel in fish with…all factors that make them very popular among anglers.
My favorite Inline weight is 2 ounces and I will run a 2 oz. inline about 90% of the time. I like a 2 oz. because they are large, get to the depth I want them quickly, let me fish with a steeper line angle than lighter weights, and get to the depths I fish, at the speeds I fish, with a reasonable amount of line. While definitely not exact, here is my 2 oz. Inline weight formula for depth:
1.0-1.3 mph 2 feet out = 1 foot down
1.3-1.7 mph 3 feet out = 1 foot down
1.7-2.0 mph 4 feet out = 1 foot down
2.0-2.4 mph 5 feet out = 1 foot down
When setting a spread of inline weights, I am much more concerned with staggering baits in the water column than I am being exact, especially when I am starting my trolling passes. I ALWAYS use the same size weight (2 oz.) and stagger depths by letting out different lengths of line. For example, let’s say I spot fish 15’ down and I want to troll at 1.5 mph. I will set 2 oz. weights out with 25-50’ of line out. At some point I will start catching fish. When I get my second fish, I will start to move the weights that are “deeper” than the productive ones up higher in the water column. Once I reach the “bottom” of the zone where my baits will get bit, I start moving the higher weights down until I find the “top” edge of the zone where baits will get bit (I call this the “box of death”-another article for another day!)
A few tips that will help you become a better inline weight fisherman is to only have one variable in your spread. Either use all the same size weight on every rod and control depth with different lengths of line out OR use the same amount of line out on all rods and change the weight size to get different depths. DO NOT try to “mix and match” different weight sizes and different amounts of line out…you are asking for trouble and won’t be able to remember or duplicate productive settings. Also, settle on one style and shape of Inline weight and use them exclusively! Different style, shape and configurations of inline weights will run at different depths, even in the same size, so be consistent with the shape of your weights. My favorites are simple barrel shaped lead with a ball bearing swivel at each end. I attach a crankbait snap to the “fat” end of the weight to make it easy to add or change leaders or crawler harnesses.
Inline weights are a great depth control option that deserves a place in every troller’s bag of tricks. Understand their limitations, come up with a system that works for you, and use them to catch LOTS of walleye!